Simple fit optimization

A easy way to adjust the fit of a pattern

Here I show you an overview of how I adjusted the pattern of the Night and Day Dress (Charm Patterns) to my body. All without math and just by pinning the muslin to make it fit.

The procedure:

To make my pinned corrections transferable to the actual pattern, I transferred all pinned lines with a pen on the fabric, undid all seams of the muslin and then compared my muslin pieces with the actuall pattern and adjusted the pattern accordingly.

HERE you can find a photo of my muslin, pinned to my DIY-dressform. The wrinkles at the back have disappeared on its own due to the implemented shortening of the back (point 4)! 🙂

photo: simple fit optimization: body

The adjustments: (see photo)

1. lowered the bust point
2. reduced the width at the upper side seam (front)
3. reduced the width at the side seam (back)
4. a) reduced the back length (center) (sway back adjustment) + b) added the here reduced width at the back side seam(s)
5. extended the back armhole
6. adjusted the length of the straps (for me only on the right side)

Note to 4:
Here I have a) cut open the back paper pattern piece according to the “dart” transferred from the muslin at one line and closed the dart by “rotating up”. I then straightened the center back again and b) added the removed width from the center back to the side (seam), which width I had already reduced before (point 3).

More about this and also photos of my finished Night and Day Dress will follow soon! It first have to make it and I am currently still struggling with the choice of fabric I want to use! 😉