What are in-seam pockets?
Answer: In-seam pockets are pockets which are worked into a seam, so that only the pocket openings are visible from the outside.
What is a French seam?
Answer: A French seam is a seam in which the raw fabric edges are neatly enclosed and no longer visible.
And how to combine both I would like to show you today:
My question: How do I sew pockets into a skirt or dress when the side seams of the skirt/dress are worked with French seams.
You need to have a seam allowance of 1,5cm | 5/8“.
Place the pockets left sides facing onto the skirt and align with the pocket-markers, so that the pockets are later congruent. Sew the pockets with a seam allowance of 0,75cm | 5/16“ (approx. width of your sewing machine pressure foot or half seam allowance) onto the respective skirt.
Trim the seam allowance along the pocket seams (only) by about half. Fold the pockets away from the skirt parts and press the seams. Cut into the seam allowance of the skirts directly over and under the pockets (caution: do not cut INTO the seam) to release the seam allowance of the skirts.
Fold the pockets away from the skirt and press the seam. Then fold the pockets onto the skirt parts this time that the rights sides of the fabric are facing (fold edge is the seam just sewn).
Sew with a seam allowance of 0,75cm | 5/16“, so the raw fabric edges are enclosed. Fold the pockets away from the skirt parts and press the seam again.The pocket openings are finished, now it’s time for the side seams.
Place and pin with wrong sides facing one front skirt with the pocket folded away from the skirt onto the matching back skirt (also with pocket folded away from the skirt). Then sew the skirt side seam with a seam allowance of 0,75cm | 5/16“ along the upper side seam, around the pockets and along the lower side seam. Trim the seam allowance about half.
Tip: At the corners – to get to the pockets, leave the needle of your sewing machine in the fabric, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric so you can sew the pocket together and repeat the same as soon as you reach the other corner of the pocket and then sew the last part of the skirt side seam.
Cut into the corners (at the pockets) up to the seam (not into the seam), turn everything to that the right sides of the fabric are facing and press.
The last seam (upper skirt side seam, around the pocket, lower skirt side seam) is sewn again with a seam allowance of 0,75cm | 5/16“, because in total there is a seam allowance of 1,5cm | 5/8“ included in the pattern and half of it is already used. After you have sewn this seam, press it and press the pocket to the front skirt. Done!
And this is how your in-seam pocket looks from the outside!